North Vancouver Island

The Story

There are few animals that elicit such a sense of awe as the killer whale. And there is no better place in the world to see them than in the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago off the northeast coast of Vancouver Island. A land of deep, glacier carved channels, snow-capped peaks and lush coastal rainforest, this is the ancestral home of the Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw people, whose iconic orca-inspired art, ancient totem poles and indomitable spirit are imprinted throughout this wild and beautiful place.

Both the orca and the Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw people are threatened, one by environmental challenges, and the other by a centuries-long attempt at cultural assimilation. So far, both have beaten the odds. This is a unique opportunity to help preserve, support and celebrate their enduring presence.

Book Recommendations

Some of our Favourite Things

Sea kayaking safari

Kayaking through an aquatic Eden of giant kelp beds as a pod of porpoises or a huge Steller sea lion suddenly breaks the surface right in front of you. The channels and narrows around the Johnstone Strait are alive with wildlife, and you never know what will surprise you.

‘Yalis (Alert Bay), Cormorant Island, 'Na̲mg̲is territory

A living testimony to Indigenous resilience and vibrant cultural heritage, the island is home to the U’mista Cultural Centre, located on the site of a former residential school, and its world-renowned collection of potlatch ceremonial regalia.

Amazing art + storytelling

Northwest Coast Pacific art stands out for its stylized, richly coloured prints, masks and totem poles, depicting mythical animals and legends. We visit the studio of a renowned Kwagu’ł carver and elder who will share stories of his art and people.

Breathtaking views

Whether it’s the endless chain of snow-capped peaks along British Columbia’s Central Coast, or the verdant ranges that rise from Vancouver Island, the 360° view is awe-inspiring. And nothing prepares you for the sight of a group of long, black orca fins slicing through the water as the sun sets over the Strait.

Journey into the Great Bear Rainforest

The Great Bear is spectacular enough, but we have the privilege of being invited to the ancestral territory of the Ḵwiḵwa̱sut̓inux̱w nation and hear directly from community leaders about an inspiring initiative to revive the Kwak̓wala language and steward one of the world’s environmental treasures.

Itinerary

We begin where the road ends, in the heart of Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw territory, near the northeastern tip of Vancouver Island, at Port Hardy, making our way to the Johnstone Strait, Bond Sound, Alert Bay and Telegraph Cove before returning to Port Hardy.

We spend three days kayaking - a uniquely immersive way to explore the many natural wildlife wonders - and get close to the famed Robson Bight, a rare protected sanctuary where orcas come to rub themselves on smooth pebbles along the seafloor. Whether it’s humpback whales, Steller sea lions, white-sided dolphins, eagles or grizzlies, your wildlife cup will runneth over.

We also take a deep dive into Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw culture and history, meeting an hereditary chief and a carver, visiting a traditional Big House, and learning about the potlatch, the ancient gift-giving feast once outlawed by government. The Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw  have a rich, vital and inspiring story to tell, and you will hear it directly from them.

Activity Level: The kayaking is not strenuous and no prior experience is required. We are out on the water 2-3 hours at a stretch, looking for wildlife and enjoying the spectacular scenery. We aim to kayak in the morning, take a break for lunch, and then head out in search of more wildlife in the afternoon. Appropriate for kids 15+

Accommodation

In the rustic and remote northeast coast of Vancouver Island, we’ve taken great care to choose tasteful, well-appointed, and wherever possible, Indigenous-owned accommodations. We spend three nights at the arty, Big House-styled Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy and three nights at a comfortable kayaking base camp in the Johnstone Strait. The base camp has permanent A-frame tents, raised beds and a covered dining area, as well as outdoor showers and outhouses. We celebrate delicious home-cooked food and local specialities, from traditional Indigenous bannock with maple butter, fish soup topped with seaweed and locally caught salmon served on a cedar plank.

Guides

  • Andrew

    The go-to sea kayaking guide for North Vancouver Island, Andrew has been running multi-day kayaking trips through the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago for close to 25 years.

  • Mike

    A member of the Musgamakw Dzawada’enuxw First Nation, Mike and his team of Indigenous guides combine expert grizzly bear and whale spotting with rich local storytelling.

  • Andrea karibu adventures

    Andrea

    Founder of karibu adventures, Andrea did her university Honours thesis on the live capture of cetaceans (whales, dolphins and porpoises) for seaquariums. Being able to bring people to see and experience orca in the wild (where they belong) is a dream come true.

FAQs

  • We are the only tour that truly integrates the kayaking and wildlife experience with a deep exploration of Indigenous culture in the spirit of partnership and reconciliation.

    1. We do three days of kayaking, using a base camp in the Johnstone Strait as our base. We don’t just kayak for a day. This is a truly immersive experience, with an opportunity to see a significant variety of wildlife.

    2. We work with six different Indigenous partners, including artists, hotels, wildlife viewing operators, caterers, dance troupes and a unique cultural initiative that we visit. We don’t just watch a dance or visit a museum, we actively seek out Indigenous partners and we work with Indigenous guides who share their story with us on their terms.

    3. We are the first and only tour to be welcomed to Nawalakw, an inspiring new cultural initiative on the traditional and unceded territory of the Ḵwiḵwa̱sut̓inux̱w in the Great Bear Rainforest.

  • Port Hardy. It’s the last town at the northern end of Highway 19, which runs the length of Vancouver Island.

  • Pacific Coastal Airlines runs direct flights from Vancouver to Port Hardy. Alternatively, you can fly to Victoria and rent a car (it’s approximately a six-hour drive). Or take BC Ferries from Vancouver to Nanaimo and drive to Port Hardy (4-hour drive).

  • We begin the tour at about 3pm. We recommend taking the Pacific Coastal Airlines flight that arrives in the morning. It gives you plenty of time to settle in at the hotel and grab a bite before we kick off. For departing, we recommend taking the same Pacific Coastal Airlines flight in the morning back to Vancouver.

  • The town of 4,000 has a small but informative museum with a good gift shop, and there is as a boardwalk by the water. Café Guido is great for fresh local fare as well as artisanal gifts and a well-curated bookstore.

  • Our tours run in August, when the average daily high is about 18C and dips down to 10C at night. Summer has the least amount of rain (8 days on average for August), but travelers should be prepared in case it rains.

  • karibu provides all your kayaking gear, however we recommend water shoes and gloves to avoid blisters while paddling. We do not provide waterproof pants, in case you want to bring them. Quick dry clothes are important, along with layers. A packing guide is included upon booking confirmation.

  • Some call it glamping, others call it very comfortable camping. Either way, our base camp is located on a beautiful island overlooking the Johnstone Strait. You will stay in one of our five spacious permanent tents, which are on raised platforms with beds. We have a kitchen and outdoor covered dining area where we serve up coffee, apps and all meals. We have an outdoor shower (warning it can get chilly!) and outhouses.

  • Yes. We have five tents at our base camp. If you are willing to share with another single traveler, then we can reduce the price. The tents are large and provide plenty of personal space. If you are interested in sharing a double room at the hotel in Port Hardy as well, we can offer you the full double pp rate. For more information please contact us.

  • Our North Vancouver Island trip is great for families. We have taken our children and they loved the wildlife and the first-hand connection to Indigenous people and their stories was an invaluable learning experience. We recommend the trip for youth 15+.

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