Aerial view of St. John’s, capital of Newfoundland and Labrador
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Alex Buisse
The small but mighty city of St. John’s Newfoundland has been welcoming visitors for centuries – from Portuguese fisherman, British and American navies, to Irish immigrants and today’s curious travellers looking for culture and adventure on the very easternmost edge of North America.
First settled for its timber, rich fishery and strategic military location, tucked in a protected harbour behind a dramatic rocky channel known as The Narrows, St. John’s now draws visitors for its dramatic scenery, vibrant culture and uniquely welcoming east coast charm.
That charm and distinct identity is at least in part a reflection of its remote location and its storied history. St. John’s is the oldest English-settled city in North America, while the province of Newfoundland and Labrador was the very last province to join Canada in 1949. Those ties to another time and place can still be discerned today.
You feel it in the Irish-infused music playing in the pubs that line George St., in the National Historic Sites of Cape Spear and Signal Hill, and in the colourful clapboard houses and historic neighbourhoods of Quidi Vidi and The Battery.
St. John’s is a great city for walking as well as boasting some of the most scenic hiking trails in North America. And when you’re hungry, it’s got a buzzy foodie scene, with some of the best restaurants in Canada.
Visit St. John’s Colourful Downtown
Walk Jellybean Row in downtown St. John’s Newfoundland.
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Alex Buisse
Walking around St. John’s is a great way to familiarize yourself with the city. In addition to the famed Jellybean Row, a string of colourful clapboard houses, make sure to browse Water Street and Duckworth Street, the main thoroughfares lined with restaurants, cafes, and unique shops and gift stores with doors open to passersby.
In summer, Water Street is closed to vehicles and becomes a pedestrian mall. Most of the restaurants have outdoor patios and often there is local music playing, creating a festive atmosphere that is great for people watching and soaking up the St. John’s vibe.
Our Favourite Shops and Local Made-in-Newfoundland Gifts
If you plan on hiking the East Coast Trail, which goes through St. John’s, the outdoors store The Outfitters sells the gear you’ll need. For souvenirs, the Craft Council Shop & Pantry has a wide selection of crafts and goods by hundreds of local artists and artisans. One of our favourite brands to shop at the Craft Council is East Coast Glow, a Newfoundland skincare company that creates soaps and shower bombs using pure iceberg water. A signature St. John’s product is a Newfoundland Chocolate Company chocolate bar, which is not only delicious but comes wrapped in iconic Newfoundland sayings. Downtown, the chocolate is sold at Island Designs & Gifts on Water Street or at The Tickle Trunk on Duckworth Street.
St. John’s Breweries and Pubs
Live music and storytelling are tenets of life on the island, and there’s no better place to experience them than on George Street in downtown St. John’s.
Loads of breweries and pubs line the street, where local musicians gather nightly to shower you with folk songs and Newfoundland hospitality. Here is where you can feel the island’s strong Irish and English roots, reflected in the city’s music, traditions, and even accent.
Listen to live music at O’Reilly’s, grab a cold one at Bannerman’s Brewery, and cozy up at Shamrock City — especially for their Muggy Monday special. The city’s Irish descendants regularly take the stage.
If the locals take a liking to you, you may be blessed with a “Screeched-In” ceremony. It’s a tongue-in-cheek ritual where visitors kiss a cod and take a shot of Newfoundland Screech rum to become honorary Newfoundlanders.
One of the many pubs along St. John’s George Street
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Scott McClellan
Visit The Rooms Museum
Check out St. John’s most notable museum, The Rooms, which is a quick 10 to 15-minute walk from downtown. Designed to look like a series of traditional fish “rooms” where fishers historically processed catches, dried nets and stored equipment, The Rooms is an architectural landmark akin to Toronto’s CN Tower.
The Rooms is the largest cultural space in Newfoundland and Labrador, featuring permanent and rotating exhibits, from artwork by contemporary Newfoundland artist Christopher Pratt to Indigenous Inuit artifacts and testaments to the region’s maritime history. It also has a cafe with an unrivaled, panoramic view of the city and harbour.
The view from The Rooms of St. John’s and The Narrows
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Barrett & MacKay Photo
Stroll Through The Battery Neighbourhood
A 15 minute walk from downtown St. John’s is one of North America’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements, The Battery, which dates back to the 17th century. A fishing village (like most settlements in Newfoundland), its name is derived from the military posts established along its steep cliffs at the entrance to the St. John’s harbour, to defend against French attacks and later during both World Wars.
The view along Battery Road up to Signal Hill
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Alex Buisse
These days The Battery is known for its brightly coloured homes hugging the steep cliffside, overlooking the harbour that line Battery Road, the main artery of the small historic neighbourhood. At the end of the road, and at the foot of Signal Hill, is the neighbourhood hangout The Battery Cafe, a no-frills coffeehouse with a patio overlooking the water.
The road is also the beginning, or the end (depending on how you approach it), of the North Head Trail that connects to Signal Hill, the National Historic Site. This 1.7 km trail goes 500 ft up 100 stairs and along cliff paths that end in some spectacular views of the St. John’s Narrows. We recommend starting at Signal Hill and hiking down to The Battery.
Take a Stroll Through Historic Quidi Vidi
Hike down the Sugarloaf Path to Quidi Vidi, part of the East Coast Trail
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Michael Winsor
Like The Battery, the historic Quidi Vidi neighbourhood is a picturesque harbourfront area about a 10 minute walk from St. John’s downtown core. A former fishing village in its own right, Quidi Vidi’s winding roads and colourful heritage homes are great for an afternoon stroll.
The village (pronounced Kiddy-Viddy) has a number of craft stores, many housed in the Quidi Vidi Artisans Studios, and is home to the historic Mallard Inn, a series of heritage homes-turned boutique hotel. A definite highlight is the Quidi Vidi Brewery, considered the best craft brewery in St. John’s. Join a tour around the vats before sipping a pint on their waterfront patio.
Quidi Vidi Brewery, Avalon
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
Hike to Signal Hill and Cape Spear
The North Head Trail from Signall Hill to The Battery
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Dru Kennedy
If you’re interested in exploring Newfoundland’s rugged nature (as you should), hiking is one of the top things to do in St. John’s. The capital is part of the East Coast Trail, a 336 kilometre coastal hiking trail that begins in Conception Bay, wends it way over the northern tip of the island, taking in lighthouses, natural arches, ecological reserves, and communities along Newfoundland’s southern shore to Cappahayden.
Signal Hill, a National Historic Site, is a definite highlight and one of the best known segments of the East Coast Trail. Just 2.9 km from downtown St. John’s, Signal Hill sits atop a promontory on the north side of The Narrows, and affords panoramic views of the harbour and coast, and is often a great location for spotting breaching humpback whales from June to mid-August.
Signal Hill, where the first transAtlantic wireless signal was sent from Cabot Tower in 1901
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Alex Buisse
The view of Fort Amherst from Signal Hill
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Julian Calverley
The trail offers stunning views of Fort Amherst, an 18-century British military battery and National Historic Site, before wending its way along the steep cliffs of The Narrows of St. John’s Harbour. In some places the path is quite narrow, with a chainlink rail to hold on to (and not much else), before ending in The Battery.
Hike to the Easternmost Point of North America
The spectacular Cape Spear path
Photo courtesy of karibu adventures
About 15 km east of downtown St. John’s is Cape Spear, a National Historic Site and one of the best places for sunrise watching in North America. It’s also the launching off spot for one of the most majestic hikes on all of the East Coast Trail and a favourite segment of karibu’s guided hiking tour of Newfoundland.
The entire Cape Spear path is 15.4 kilometres and takes you south down the coast to the fishing village of Petty Harbour (est. 5-7 hours total). If you start the hike in Cape Spear, you can first tour the iconic lighthouse and battlements before heading out. Parks Canada offers tours twice daily, in the morning and afternoon.
The hike is considered to be of “moderate” difficulty according to the East Coast Trail Association, however there is a section of large boulders near Petty Harbour that can be challenging to scramble down, especially at the end of a long hike. For that reason, locals often start the hike in Petty Harbour to get the hard part over first.
If you want to avoid them altogether, we recommend hiking in ~5 kilometres from Cape Spear, and then coming back. You will still enjoy the best part of the trail and the views are quite spectacular. If you get hungry, Cape Spear Cafe offers up sandwiches, seafood chowder and ice cream served out of a homemade fish-shaped waffle cone.
The Cape Spear lighthouse and National Historic Site
Photo courtesy of Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism / Troy Maher
What Are The Best Restaurants in St. John’s?
Aside from its pubs and nightlife, St. John’s has a thriving foodie scene. The artisanal Postmaster’s Bakery downtown is an ideal stop for lunch. Bannerman’s Brewery is a favourite among locals for craft beer and creative spins on pub fare.
For more upscale dining, check out Portage, ranked among the top 100 restaurants in Canada. Terre in the Alt Hotel is also a refined choice, serving contemporary Canadian fare based on local ingredients.
Terre restaurant in the Alt Hotel
Photo courtesy of the Alt Hotel
What Are The Best Hotels in St. John’s?
Our recommendation for the best hotel in St. John’s is the Alt Hotel, well located on the main street, close to all the shops, with the great Terre Restaurant.
For a more boutique experience, there’s Ryan Mansion Inn, also in downtown St. John’s, or the Mallard Inn, a heritage property in the Quidi Vidi neighbourhood, about a 10-minute walk from downtown. The Mallard is owned and run by Dwell by Sam, the same company that operates Dvele Inn, a boutique guesthouse option for an upscale stay.
One of the Mallard Inn’s heritage guest homes in Quidi Vidi
Photo courtesy of karibu adventures
Getting There
There are direct flights into the capital of St. John’s from most major Canadian cities, with the most frequent from Toronto, Montreal and Halifax. St. John’s airport can often be fog-bound, so it is important to keep your flight arrangements flexible.
